Wi-Fi Routers

I just got my hands on the new UniFi travel router. This thing is really impressive.. I'm going to play with it for a little bit and probably do a review, but my first impressions are very good. Easy adoption. Super small. I think this is going to be a very popular travel router. If you add in the ability to use all of the cool connectivity features of UniFi network, I think this is going to be a no-brainer. Let me know if there's anything you want me to test..

I work for an MSP and my boss gave me the task of seeing if I could fix three UDM’s he had in storage. All were pulled from clients back in the UnifiOS v1.x days, after failing to boot up with corrupted firmware. I was able to SSH into each one, identify the original firmware version, download it from Ubiquiti’s website, and get them all working again; two Pro’s and one SE. I ended up getting all three fully working; one of the Pro’s has a bad LCD controller board, which isn’t reporting to the main board properly. Apparently the controller reads as a USB device that isn’t enumerating or going into DFU mode properly; thus, stays stuck on the “Est. Time Remaining 5 min” screen with a loading bar that won’t actually load. Turns out it’s just a cosmetic issue; the UDM itself is actually fully booted and functional. I can’t find a replacement LCD controller board anywhere, and it’s also missing its drive sled, so my boss let me keep it for myself! He’s happy enough to have a fully functional Pro and SE in inventory now, so this one is a gift :) My personal router is a UDR6 I’ve been using for years, and is starting to have that issue that requires a physical reboot occasionally; I’m now going to replace it with a proper small rack, and put up a U6-Pro that my boss sold me for $79. I’ve wanted a UDM Pro for a long time, so this is a huge score for me!! Gonna put my desktop and my NAS both on 10Gbe DAC connections now.

Did zero research before buying this thing. 😅 Got the back-in-stock notification and immediately smashed the buy button. It arrived this week and I’m heading out on my first trip with it. First surprise: it’s not battery powered. At first I thought that was a downside, but honestly it’s probably a plus — one less battery to manage, no swelling over time, and it just runs off USB-C. Setup was super easy through the UniFi app (iOS or macOS). Very “UniFi-ish” experience. The coolest part: It cloned my home WiFi network (same SSID and password). Every device I travel with — laptop, phone, iPad, etc. — just connected automatically like I was still at home. It connects back to my USG-Pro at home, and I can use Teleport to access everything on my home network. NAS, servers, internal services — all reachable as if I’m sitting in my office. Pretty slick so far. Curious how others are using theirs when traveling

I obtained an RMA from Ubiquiti to return my dead U6-LR on Tuesday. I shipped it back in the original box via USPS. It was delivered today and I received the attached email from the RMA group stating that I shipped them an empty box. I have asked for photo evidence, but I have not heard back from them. After doing some research, I found out this is not uncommon for them since they rely only on the warehouse that accepts the returns. Has anyone else experienced this?

So I’m just a regular CS Student with no in-depth knowledge of physical networking (Ethernet wires etc) and my family got a mesh WiFi system from TP Link which had a Ethernet backhaul support (which we really wanted as our walls are thick and don’t transmit WiFi well enough) and I had a Ethernet wire in the wall of my room terminating at my router at the other side of the house but the only issue was that the pin was broken! So it made a loose connection limiting speeds to 100Mbps. I got a crimping tool myself for really cheap price and couple of RJ45 heads, and looked into the working of Ethernet and twisted pair cables, and found that we follow 2 standards for pin alignment (T568A&B). Initially I struggled a lot (breaking few twisted wires while aligning them due to too much pressure, Inserting the pin up-side down hence having a correct but totally opposite alignment!, snipping too much wire by accident etc) however I was finally able to align and crimp em down correctly. Further I got the hang of it well enough to crimp 2 more broken wires in my house! It may not look like a big achievement to most, but I was always intrigued by networking and always wanted to try something like this and seeing it work is absolutely beautiful!. So if anyone is trying to do something like this and failing, don’t give up cause once it works it’s the best feeling in the world!!

Picture of the dog and taking zoom calls outside as a tax for reading. I recently added a [TP-Link Omada outdoor access point](https://store.omadanetworks.com/products/omada-ax1800-indoor-outdoor-dual-band-wi-fi-6-access-point-with-external-antennas-eap603-outdoor?_pos=2&_psq=eap630+outdoor&_ss=e&_v=1.0) to my setup, so now I can work from outside when doing tasks that don’t require my full multi-monitor desk setup. That said, I want to be a good neighbor in the WiFi spectrum. It’s currently running in mesh mode with a PoE injector (properly protected) until I can get a cable ran from my PoE switch out to it. I’m only using 2.4 and 5ghz (no 6ghz gear yet), and I keep my 2.4 on the “friendly” channels of 1,6,11. I also have my 5 ghz set to 40mhz channel width, both for less interference from walls and other signals, and because I don’t need the speed from 80/160 when outside. I don’t want to be “screaming” signal and possibly interfering with neighbors. Most of my neighbors have AT&T fiber and use their BGW320 gateway, which constantly auto seeks channels (and not always 2.4 friendly ones) and broadcasts at full strength. Our yards are small as well. What would be signs I have my signal strength set correctly, without being too strong? I don’t want to sit in my yard and test every signal, and I need a little extra for when one of those AT&T gateways decides to sit on my channel as well.

There’s a saying in my language that “the shoemaker goes barefoot.” I’ve been working professionally in networking for around 20 years, last 10 years in virtualized network functions, mostly in enterprise environments, but when it came to my own home network, like an average engineer, I was always lazy and went with the simplest possible plug-and-play solutions. My current setup is finally starting to drive me crazy enough that I decided it’s time for a full reset and replacement of everything. I started reading online about recommended gear and kept running into Ubiquiti. Honestly, I barely knew the company before. My background is much more enterprise-focused with vendors like Cisco and Juniper Networks, and I’m much less familiar with the whole prosumer/home-lab ecosystem. Right now I have an aging TP-Link Deco X20 mesh setup with couple of gigabit dumb switches, which is obviously the first bottleneck. My internet connection is 2 Gbps symmetric fiber from Odido here in the Netherlands, if that matters. The ISP provided a Nokia box that converts the fiber to RJ45 VLAN 300 (I checked with Wireshark). Maybe it does more than just media conversion, maybe authentication too, so I assume I probably still need to keep using it? The house itself is wired mostly with Cat5e (not by me :) ) , so realistically I guess 2.5 GbE is probably my practical limit anyway. My plan is to build the new setup slowly instead of buying everything at once. Eventually I’ll probably add cameras, recording, and all the other toys too, but first I want to understand whether this ecosystem is really for me. What I’m trying to figure out is this: Reading between the lines here, people seem *extremely* happy with the company, the ecosystem, the management interface, and the overall experience. I started roughly planning a setup for my house and somehow ended up in the €3000-4000 range without even going completely crazy... router, a few switches, and 4-5 Wi-Fi access points. And now I’m also trying to understand whether this is basically the networking version of the Apple ecosystem effect where people buy one product, really like the quality and user experience, and then slowly find themselves buying more and more gear because everything integrates nicely together... So I guess my real question is: Is Ubiquiti actually that good for home/prosumer use and worth the investment, or is part of this just the ecosystem psychology pulling people deeper and deeper into it because of their attention to details / marketing / whatever.. ?

I recently upgraded to fiber. My neighbor is still on Cox. I work from home and am a bit concerned about the quality of my connection as the fiber company is still building out in the area and may have some growing pains. I thought about getting some kind of backup internet connection but the cheapest 5G plans are 30 bucks a month and that's an awful lot for a network I will hopefully never use. Then I thought about paying the $25 a month for the 5g connection on my truck and just using that as my backup, but I'd have to be in/near the vehicle and have it on to do so. That started me down a rabbit hole that ended here. I picked up a TP-Link AC2600 Wifi Extender for 70 bucks. There's cheaper options but this one looked nice and had a gigabit ethernet connection. Then my neighbor made a wifi SSID just for me to connect this extender to. I ran the ethernet from this extender to port 8 on my Dream Machine Pro and configured the port as a backup WAN port. I now have a backup WAN running on Cox, coming from my neighbor's wifi across the street. The connection is pretty atrocious with a 45ms ping and a speed of 15Mpbs up / 8Mpbs down but it's there and it only cost me the one time price of getting a wifi range extender. I could probably get it improved if he moved his access points but I'm taking the win as-is. I'm going to help set him up with a similar backup scheme, provided he has a second WAN port on his router. Already have an isolated SSID that I can set up with bandwidth restrictions if necessary. I *really* hope he doesn't decide to upgrade to fiber as well. edit: For those who come after, I had to set up a custom SLA on the WAN connections. Ubiquiti's default SLAs that determined when a wan connection was down were too aggressive. I wanted the fiber to be REALLY down so I set it from the default of being down on 2 of 3 pings with 20% packet loss to being down on 3/3 pings with 50% packet loss. I may even want to up that becase I want it only to switch when the signal is basically gone.

we have 5Gb internet but our router (asus gt ax11000) is only capable of about 2. 5Gb. So, thats basically the bottleneck. I have told him this probably a dozen times with specs, documentation, and basic networking limits. No matter what kind of configuration you do, you wont be able to get more throughput than what the hardware can handle. My dad (he worked for IBM a long time ago) simply refuses to hear this. He keeps saying that since hes a tech guru, he should be able to go the extra mile in terms of throughput just by his know, how. When I tell him that it is physically and technically impossible, he calls it me not understanding the science. He is now trying to make it into a game. First, he comes up with an idea where he wants to do a DIY experiment hes going to lay an Ethernet cable, then hes going to wrap it in foil and finally hes going to shine a light at one end of the cable calls it "Degrading the wire" he says its science, and it will be proof that he can increase performance. I was at a loss for words at that moment. What makes this even more difficult is that I really dont want to become like him. I hear him out, I try to see things from his perspective, and Im willing to admit if Im wrong. But sometimes there really isnt another way the hardware acts the way it does. This has nothing to do with networking anymore. or If its all about ego im unsure.

Hi guys ! Here is some important information that might help the next ROG Cronox owner. After spending time building in the **ROG Cronox**, I can honestly say this case is something special. Having a full ASUS ROG ecosystem inside an ASUS ROG case gives the whole build a completely different feeling. It just feels… complete. That said, there are **quite a few things you should know before buying it.** The biggest disappointment was the **ROG Ryuo IV SLC 360** compatibility. The top radiator bracket is **NOT** fully compatible with ASUS’s own flagship AIO. So much space for a radiator and the mounting holes don’t line up correctly. I had to find longer screws just to make it work. I eventually got it installed, but it’s honestly disappointing that the latest flagship ROG AIO doesn’t properly fit the latest flagship ROG case. That’s something ASUS should definitely address. The case also has room for **four 120mm fans at the top** (one is out of radiator for aesthetic look), but hiding the AIO tubes is much harder than I expected because there isn’t much space. I managed to make it look clean, but it definitely wasn’t an easy installation. That said, the **build quality is outstanding.** The materials, finish, and overall premium feel are exactly what you’d expect from a flagship ROG product. Do I like it more than my previous **Phanteks NV9 MKII**? **Yes and NO.** I really prefer the fan layout and the overall design of the Cronox. However, it also feels like the Cronox is already pushing the limits of its internal space, while the NV9 MKII still feels like it has room to grow. Hopefully this information helps the next ROG Cronox owner avoid some surprises during their build. Also…also my glass got a bubble inside 😐

I have fiber internet from my ISP and they provided a combo ONT router unit. There is no bridge mode option in the settings and the ISP says they do not support using my own router. I have a nice Asus router that I want to use for better wifi coverage and features like VPN and QoS. I tried putting my Asus router in AP mode but then I lose those features. If I put the ISP router in DMZ and point it to my Asus router, will that avoid double NAT? I also read about MAC address cloning but I am not sure if that works with fiber. The ISP router is required because it has the fiber input. I cannot remove it completely. Has anyone successfully used their own router behind an ISP locked fiber gateway without double NAT issues? I am in the US if that matters. Thanks for any help.

First picture is what I currently have. Google WiFi gen 1. It’s been great! I love it! But I feel it’s time for an upgrade. We recently got fiber optic internet in our area and so I want to upgrade to utilize that best as possible. Second picture is what I was planning to get. The newer nest pro. Just because I have loved the Google WiFi system so much and I have Google nests around the house so I like that it all is within that ecosystem. And I’ve read good things about the nest pro system other than it’s expensive compared to others which I see that. It’s currently on sale right now. The 2 pack is $200 from $300 which is wild to me. Another concern I have is the best pro system is 3 years old at this point. Is it still ok? I want something that’s really good, somewhat future proof for a while, and reliable. Currently I live in an apartment. It’s about 1000sq ft. However I don’t care for over kill because at some point I plan to have a bigger house and will want to use my WiFi system in that. All the other pictures I have included are from my local Walmart and what they have, just in case anything is worth checking out. I was reading an article from CNET and it said the TP link deco W7200 was the best mesh system? But honestly between Google (nest), TP link, Eero, Orbi, etc. I can’t decide. What’s the best WiFi mesh system you guys recommend?

So here's my situation, and I would love some suggestions of perhaps setups I'm not thinking of. House is about 4200 square feet across three levels. For the past five years, I've used an Orbi RBK753 system to cover the house with the main router in my office (center of the house, middle floor) and satellites in the upstairs main bedroom (at one end of the house) and basement (at other end of the house). We have fiber to the house that clocks in at 2Gbps symmetrical even though the Orbi can only handle up to 1Gbps, and the ONT is also in my office near the router. But now the Orbi system is starting to reboot on its own randomly, disrupting our WiFi coverage and really not good for when I'm on work calls and suddenly lose connectivity. Other things I have thought about/considered/done: * Tried the eero Pro 7. Easy to set up, but the throughput speeds were reeeeeeally slow. Like even in the same room as the router, I was only getting like 300Mbps on my newest devices, even as the eero registered 2.3Gbps at the node. So I returned the system. Not gonna go down that road again. * Ethernet connection between the router and satellites is not possible. * Would like to future-proof again... if I'm going to stick with this system for (hopefully) the next 5 years, I'd like something that takes full advantage of current capabilities and perhaps even goes beyond in case my ISP increases speeds or I get a ton more connected devices. * Not a fan of TP-Link given potential security issues. * New Orbi systems (870 and 970) appear to be hot messes with reviews calling out connectivity, stability and speed issues. * Have a Synology NAS connected via Ethernet to the downstairs satellite as a wireless backup utility (using Apple Time Machine). Given that, any suggestions of systems I'm not aware of or not considering?

I didnt realize how annoying weak wifi could get until I started working from home every day. Certain rooms in my house are basically unusable for meetings unless I sit right next to the router, which obviously defeats the point of having a home office. What’s the best mesh wifi system people here have used that actually solved coverage problems instead of just slightly improving them? thanks again **Update here:** I decided to go with [**Amazon eero Pro 7 tri band mesh Wi Fi 7 router**](https://reddit-links.com/eeroPro7) and it’s been a huge improvement already. The dead zones are basically gone now and my connection has stayed solid during work calls.

When I bought my router several years ago I didn't put much thought behind it. Walked into Costco picked up a TP link AC4000 and just went home lol. I started getting annoyed with companies losing our data and went down the route of self hosting my own services. Naturally now looking for a more secure router (I don't plan on exposing any of my hosted services). Funny enough didn't even know about the issues with TP link and them possibly getting banned in the US. After reading tons of posts/comments on here it seems the most common recommended brands are eero, Ubiquiti and Asus for security/features. For reference I have Verizon fios 500mbps and found these two routers at my local Microcenter that i could go pick up today. * [eero 7](https://www.microcenter.com/product/691561/eero-7-ieee-80211-be-wifi-7-dual-band-gigabit-wireless-router-with-mesh-support) * [ubiquiti](https://www.microcenter.com/product/692536/ubiquiti-unifi-dream-router-7-desktop-10g-cloud-gateway-with-integrated-wifi-7,-poe-switch,-microsd-storage) Anyone have any experience with either of these? If you had good experience with another router would appreciate your input.

Took a UTR recently and finally had the chance to deeply test it while traveling. Overall, I'm a bit disappointed with the experience so far. At the airport, connecting to the public Wi-Fi was frustrating. The captive portal didn't work correctly through the UTR. I had to connect directly with my phone first, copy the captive portal URL, then manually paste it while connected through the UTR. The router reported a "Success" page, but there was no internet access afterward until I used the original captive portal link. At the hotel, things were easier since there was no captive portal. However, I still experienced occasional disconnects despite staying in the same location, very close to the hotel's access point. Another thing I noticed is that the device gets surprisingly hot after a few hours of use, but that's kinda expected. I can't comment on battery life yet because I'm powering it from a large power bank that is also charging my laptop and phone. Is this a typical experience with the UTR, or am I just missing something on the public wifi authentification? I'm using the UniFi App via an iPhone 15 pro.

I’ve read some mixed reviews on this device, but I had to try it for myself. I was amazed at how seamless adoption was, and how easy it is to setup the WAN and optional VPN. As far as wan options, I’ve tested wireless uplink via guest WiFi, mobile hotspot, and usb tethered hotspot so far. The speeds are adequate for remote work… usually around 100mbit down & 50mbit up, mostly due to uplink limitations, I think. I’m looking forward to stress testing this on my home network that has multi gig up/down to see if it can pull more. I also tested Teleport and WireGuard. WireGuard has been very stable maintaining a session nearly 30 hours without disruption since my initial setup. I tried Teleport VPN first. While set up and establishing a connection was easier, it did reconnect several times in a short period for some reason. WireGuard seems to have slightly higher throughputs and lower latency as well. As someone who travels a lot, uses public and guest networks, and needs LAN access to home resources — the Travel Router has really simplified and secured my connectivity while away from home. The housing is plastic and seems a bit fragile, but Ubiquiti put a lot of thought into the slim, sleek and practical design, all the way down to spring actuated RJ45 terminals that open up when a cable is inserted. Looking forward to seeing how reliable this thing is moving forward. Thought it was worth sharing my experience and opinions so far, for anyone considering the purchase.

I was having major issues with my SONOS S1 system on my shiny, new Ubiquiti wifi. Creating groups of rooms and I couldn't stream more than 1 song before it lost sync and stopped. What I traced down in the end was not a SONOS problem but rather a really unstable Unifi WiFi network. Computers/phones would stop during streaming. Ring doorbell would reset and send me messages for activity when there was none. I read that SONOS was tricky on Ubiquiti so I started there. When the kids would complain the wifi dropped I would laugh - this is all brand new gear it CANT be the wifi! Until it happened to me a few times. I spent a lot of time online reading / watching videos and working with Ubiquiti Support (awesome by the way) and found 2 things that cleaned up my wifi experience. I recommend using a command line tool called fping to ping multiple IP addresses at one time from 1 computer. fping logs stats for uptime and you can ping each AP and one IoT device connected to each AP to figure out what things are dropping - clients or infrastructure. In my case it was the APs. I also setup a computer to grab the SIEM logs from the UDMP using syslog-ng and then I could check log events with my fping failures to try and correlate what was happening. A little Wireshark thrown in for good measure.  My system UDMP -> USW Pro XG10 -> 4x U7 Pro + 1 U7 Outdoor.  I have an SSID just for SONOS and its 2.4 GHz only and separate VLAN and all my S1 devices are on WIFI not sonos-net.  I have a 100+ smart devices most 2.4GHz and running on their own SSID.  This makes a lot of multicast/broadcast traffic from all my clients.  I started here: [https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/27384925962647-Managing-Broadcast-Traffic-with-UniFi](https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/27384925962647-Managing-Broadcast-Traffic-with-UniFi) [https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/30266615758743-Resolving-Wi-Fi-Performance-Issues-Due-to-High-Airtime-Utilization](https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/30266615758743-Resolving-Wi-Fi-Performance-Issues-Due-to-High-Airtime-Utilization) In the end, two things finally cleaned up my 60-90 second Wifi outages: 1. Set Storm Control for Multicast and Broadcast limits to 1000 pkts/s. This is for each port on the USW Pro XG10 with an AP connected. You have to enable ADVANCED features to find this. This fixed a LOT of my problems, but not all.  2. In the same ADVANCED features, I set Link Speed from "automatically negotiate" to "2.5Gbps FDX". My U7 pros are 2.5 Gbps according to spec but I was getting a lot of errors for my APs operating at a slower link speed due to power or cabling issues. It doesn't say what that slower link speed actually is! It's all new CAT6 and runs fine at 10 Gbps with other devices so I didnt think the cables were an issue. I ignored these errors for weeks. When I set it to fixed 2.5 Gbps speed from auto negotiate, my network drops stopped all together. Based on speed tests, it's running over 1 Gbps for sure. I also have been running the latest betas firmware (auto-updating) for my APs and switches since engaging Ubiquiti Support. All this was worked out on the 8.5.18 FW for the U7Pro / Outdoor and 7.4.1 on the USW Pro XG10 . And yes, the SONOS S1 is working fine now. Hope that helps someone else.

Not sure about specific settings and tuning as I run mostly Ubiquiti wifi hardware, however when it comes to the general idea of what you're talking about overall, I'm pretty sure you're wildly overthinking it. 95% of people aren't remotely aware of how their wifi works, and as you said, just leave the BGW320 or whatever ISP provided modem router/combo unit they are provided in place. 80% of those people will never run a speed test, and 75% of those people never use wifi for anything bandwidth intensive enough to notice interference. You're a chill dude for not wanting your nicer wifi hardware to drown out others, but I seriously wouldn't worry about it.

The router would need to be capable of Policy Based Routing, I use MikroTik but there are many others.

After a power-related "incident" damaged our last router, our ISP replaced it with the cheapest router they could find, which performs poorly, offers basically no options, and is owned by the ISP. I've been eyeing Mikrotik routers for a few years now, mainly because of RouterOS offering a decent featureset and apparently the hardware functionality being decent value for the price. Given my situation, now is probably the right time. While I know the learning curve can be very sharp, I do a lot of tinkering and am wrapping up an IT degree so I don't think that will be an issue. I'd like to be able to do some homelabbing eventually but money's tight and hardware is expensive these days so my needs are just the router/WAP for now. I don't mind doing a non-wifi router but I would have to factor the separate WAP into the costs in that case. I need a pretty strong signal to reach a particular corner of the house (something about the layout of the walls tends to make wifi signals really fall off there). I've been told Mikrotik's wifi is not great, so I'd probably look elsewhere for that if it comes down to it. A lot of WAPs seem to rely on PoE so having that from the router would be nice. Main ones I've been looking at are the L009UiGS-RM, the hEX S 2025, and the hAP ax3. The hAP ax3 *seems* the most performant of the three but I don't know how it fares in practice. There's also the concern about built-in wifi performance. Of the other two, the hEX S 2025 seems to have better throughput performance but I've seen comments that the L009UiGS-RM tends to run better in practice. Recommendations? --- EDIT: Uplink is around 600Mbps under ideal circumstances (no other devices on, direct eth to the ISP modem). ISP modem only has two ethernet connections, no SFP/SFP+. Budget is around 200-250 USD total; this includes a separately purchased WAP if needed.

Mikrotik is the one to scratch that itch.

As the title says. Currently using a TP-Link AC1750 and thought that moving flats and the need to reposition my router would be a good opportunity to upgrade a bit and since my workstation also supports 2.5Gbit/s ethernet that would probably be a reasonable target (10Gbit/s is also still a bit expensive?) Router should have probably two 2.5Gbit/s ports, since Gigabit internet connection may actually arrive in the future and the 1x 2.5Gbit/s models seem to have that port as WAN anyway and I at least want one 2.5Gb connection on LAN. I am not really sure about WiFi, is 6GHz already a thing? I think ax is probably enough for the time being? But wouldn't say no to a good option, although I value stability and strong signal/good reception more, especially reception always being a bit of an Achilles heel on my current model. As far as I checked the device table that leaves me with the Flint2 or the Asus ZenWiFi BT8, right? Cool options like the Zyxel T-56 are sadly not available anymore. I would choose the Flint2, but the reports about signal strength going down when flashing OpenWrt worry me. (Flashing OpenWrt is a must for me, even if the Flint2 has already an OpenWrt-based firmware, but I don't want to use that.) Or should I probably defer the upgrade and wait for new options with WiFi7?

Purchased a new construction, during the electrical walkthrough I had our sparky run power and cat 6 to 3 corners of our house, and an inside corner overlooking the driveway. Originally was planning to just buy a Costco special and install 4 camera and some sort of NVR and went down the rabbit hole finding UniFi. Not going to lie, the system names and setup are a bit daunting for someone without an IT background. Thankfully this community and YouTube have been pretty helpful. Basically I’m looking for 4 cameras recording to a NVR for personal monitoring. We live in a great neighborhood in the rural Midwest but occasionally a neighbor will post asking if anyone saw a suspicious car etc. I think I’ve decided on purchasing 4 G6 turrets and probably a UNVR instant, along with a 12tb WD purple. For just basic camera setup is this all I need? I’d debated replacing my home WiFi with a UniFi system but currently my Asus ZenWifi pro X12 has good coverage in my home. I wouldn’t be opposed to changing that in the future if that changes the recommendation for a NVR. If any seasoned UniFi users can let me know if I’m missing anything before I place my order I’d greatly appreciate it! Edit: these will be mounted under the soffit in the corners of the house. We live in ND so brutal winters, moderate wind. There should be a junction box or something in each area to mount them- but with moving I haven’t actually climbed up and taken covers off to see.

There are definitely a few supported WiFi 7 devices. Look here: https://toh.openwrt.org/?features=wifi_be&view=normal My advice: only go with MediaTek devices, and avoid ISP-specific SKUs. That leaves Banana Pi BPI-R4 and ASUS ZenWiFi BT8 as your choices.

I'm using an Asus ZenWiFi BT10 mesh with wireless backhaul, and it works really well. The wireless backhaul uses wifi-7 MLO (despite whether you use MLO for clients or not), and this really ups the wireless backhaul game for a mesh. Very close to as fast as when I used wired backhaul via MoCA. So no, wired backhaul is not necessary to see great speed from your mesh. By the way, no dead zones here, full house wireless coverage using the mesh. We can't really run ethernet cables "all over the house" here due to having no attic and no crawl space...and I don't want to rip the walls and go through all that. Don't feel that I need to with our current solution anyways.

***UPDATE (04/13/26 @ 1:18 PM PST)*** I ***reset the UDR7 back to factory settings and redeployed it again*** without as a new system (same as how I did it originally). So far things seems to be running as expected where I thought they should be. Wired speeds are full speeds and wireless speeds are comparable (or slightly better) than the Synology possibly because I am getting the full provisioned internet speed vs 1Gbps with Synology (due to lack of 2.5Gbe ports). Hopefully this permanently fixes the issue. Now I know the device itself is capable. Not sure what happened because I didnt change the settings much when I first set it up initially. I just redid everything back to fresh. =========== Hopping to get some guidance on what to do next. Just purchased the UDR7 and switched my network from Synology RT6600AX and WRX560. I have spectrum 1Gb down and 40Mb up. Not the best internet and was happy with the Synology. I upgraded to Unifi for better security features and somewhat “future proof” my networking system. I know 2.5Gbe isn’t much but service availability and speeds are limited to Spectrum in my area. With Synology, I was able to get full 940Mbps down wired and about 650-700Mbps wireless. With the UDR7 results are pretty disappointing. It seems my speeds are cut in half compared to what I was able to get with Synology. ***IDR is turned off, QoS is Off, Hardware Acceleration is ON*** Not sure why I’m not able to get anywhere close to what I was able to get with the Synology router. I would have thought the UDR7 would be an upgrade. I think something might be wrong with the UDR itself since wired connection should yield close to my ISP speed or the internal speed test from the UDR7. Or perhaps it’s a setting issue? WiFi settings: tried various channels and 80Mhz band since that’s the max the iPhone 14P and iPad Pro M1 supports. I’ve been reading a few people that had similar issues and I tried suggestions from those post with no luck. May need to reach out to customer support tomorrow. ***Additional Notes 1:*** Main test used was via Ookla, Wifiman. One thing that might also be worth mentioning is I also tried tested using fast.com and on a couple occasions, I would get 1.4Gbps via wired connection. It’s possible that it was over inflating the results since my max ISP speed direct from the router was only 1.15Gbps. Also tested using Apple TV 4K (wired) and it was getting around 700-850Mbps. With the Synology, it would max it to 940Mbps since that was the cap for 1Gbe Ethernet. Not sure if it means anything since fast.com might use larger files or single file vs Speedtest.net. Not sure. ***UPDATE (04/13/26 @ 11:49AM PST)*** Resetting the UDR7 back to factory settings and setting it all up again with minimal changes. Then perform test. Middle of work day 😂 ***UPDATE (04/13/26 @ 11:56AM PST)*** Just finished resetting and setting it back up. Changed the Wifi PW so no other devices can connect to it. Tested it and am getting similar speed as what I was getting with the Synology router before both wired and wireless. Will test a couple more times and then update the PW back to normal to see if other devices connected to it is what causes the speed to drop.

I know how it feels, my manager gave me Synology and after that I dived into home networking and stuff, upgraded to 1Gbps, got UDR7, additional AP and most recently a switch because girlfriend gifted me PS5. Life is good! :)

I use an OpenVPN server and DDNS to "tunnel" back to my NAS. This lets me though the firewall and I access my content like Im on the LAN. It may be an option but I dont know enough about your home router. If you were on a Synology for instance they offer a way to map back to the NAS too.

Have one. Nothing special so far. Personally I prefer an APC or CyberPower for <1500VA UPS as they come with a USB interface that Synology NAS units communicate with. The UPS-Tower doesn't have that simple feature and so far I haven't found an easy way to make the NAS talk to it for shutdown and monitoring features.

Hello, I run a small family business and the current network we have is from when we were much smaller, so it all needs upgrading, but I'm a bit lost with what we need. TLDR Would this setup work for a small business: \TP-Link EAP653 AX3000 Wireless Access Point \Plus either \TP-Link TL-SG2210MP JetStream PoE Switch OR \TP-Link TL-SG1016PE PoE I dont want to buy something that "works", but cant be added to later or where the components are only semi-incompatible with with each other. We currently have: (Please don't laugh too much!) 6 PCs, several handheld wifi devices, 1 alarm system, 1 CCTV system, Tado heating, 4 Doro AUB 300i phones attached to an Orchid PBX308+ Current network: **-A new EE digital broadband router (that EE just sent us)** this has one line in and then splits into internet and phone sockets. We will soon be switching to BT business with a similar router. **-We then have a TP-Link AC2600 router**, with the following connected: \--Tado heating connection \--Alarm RJ45 \--TP-Link AC750 (see below) \--TP-Link TL-SG105S (see below) **-A TP-Link AC750 wifi router** added to this a long time ago (I suppose this is working as a switch, again dont laugh!) \--Several PCs **-One cable runs into another office with a TP-Link TL-SG105S switch** \--2 PCs \--CCTV Yes, its a mess. As we will be keeping this EE / BT router, would this simple setup be best: \--TP-Link EAP653 AX3000 Wireless Access Point \--TP-Link switch But then I have no idea which switch to go for? A PoE, Managed, unmanaged, Omada? These are what I have been looking at: \--TP-Link TL-SG2210MP JetStream PoE Switch \--TP-Link TL-SG1016PE PoE I have researched the above, but I dont really know what the benefits are of each. I keep seeing that Omada is the way to go but is that overkill for us? Will the TP-Link TL-SG1016PE PoE be good enough? Thank you Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you

I find Ubiquiti confusing compared to Netgear mesh or Asus Mesh systems, but then Ubiquiti always seems confusing. I was looking at getting a Ubiquiti UDR7, but can you add any type of mesh network to it. Currently use an Asus BQ16 Pro mesh system, which works great and at my Dad’s house he has an Orbi Mesh systems that is now not getting updates. This would replace his Orbi. His ranch house is about 1200, so maybe does not even need a mesh system and one UDR7 is fine, as it would be in the main living room. Was also looking at Orbi 770 and Asus BT10 both dual equipment setups.

get a gigabit tp link, asus or xiaomi router, these are cheap except asus prolly, i know those have privacy concerns, but its way better then the isp router, even then i dont think jio lets you use your own router, so youll have to use it in bridge mode and have double NAT issue one thing you can try is clone the isp router mac address and use the new router in place of it, i have personally used tp-link Archer C7, you can also flash openwrt on it for better privacy, understandable i had gtpl which uses jio as a backbone they let you use your own router and you can update the mac address from their app add your new router mac address. most other better router cost way too much in india so you dont have much of a choice

I have two floors house with brick walls. Using three cheap Tp link Archer C6 v4 (AC wifi standard) with easymesh ethernet backhaul. One is main router and other two are APs. Archer C6 has Gigabit ports. Have this setup last three years without issues. Also have several switches between main all routers all good for both ethernet and wifi performance.

Main router TPLink XC220 G3V Connected to 2 APs via lan to lan connection AP1 - DLink DIR- 825, Static IP assigned, Dedicated AP Mode, DHCP disabled, AP Isolation disabled AP2 - TPLink Archer C7, Static IP Assigned, Dedicated, AP Mode, DHCP disabled, AP Isolation disabled. 1. Now a device connected to AP1 WiFi can't communicate with device connected to AP2. 2. Internet works across devices. 3. When connected to main router, everything is accessible. 4. When connected to either APs wifi and perform a network device search, it only reaches till main rouer. Other AP or devices connected to it are not visible. Please help me understand where could be the problem and what is the solution. I have a home server connected to AP2 which i mainly want to acces via AP1 and this setup is not allowing me. Its accessible via tailscale though.

Hi! I currently have a D-Link DIR-878 A1. OpenWrt has been much better than the stock firmware, but since some things are not 100% optimized yet, like Felix Fietkau said about the mt76 chip, the Wi-Fi ends up slower compared to other routers. I want to upgrade to a Wi-Fi 6E router with 1GB of RAM and, if possible, still using an MTK chip. These are my minimum preferences. My internet speed is 600 Mbps. My problem is that I live in Brazil and I am not sure which models I should look for.

Unifi is an investment and is the way. You can buy any cheap tp link, Asus, link sys, d link, etc and be fine... We have all been down that rabbit hole.... Even good old net Duma.... 😂. Make the investment and u won't have to worry baiut ping spikes, lag or Omg I can't get internet in my garage..... What do I do. 😏

It's certainly an option, the cost just adds up indefinitely, so for me that wouldn't be worth it. I used to run a small ISP, and I can vouch for this router: # Linksys WRT3200ACM That thing has the craziest WIFI range of anything I've seen, you will pick up your signal from a block away. Plus you can flash it with OpenWRT to get some better firmware on there, and customize it however you want. It's a very good router (likely faster than what you are currently using), but it can also be configured to act as a WAP only. For a bit of context, I've run an entire small town's internet through one of these, and it held up. So it will handle the traffic from a single household no problem. Also, if your shed is made of metal, that could be part of the problem. Sheet metal (including the thin foil lining on some insulation) will block WIFI very effectively, and cause the radio waves to bounce around in ways you don't want. So you may need to move your directional antennas such that they are shooting around metal objects and not through them.

I used the wired Linksys for years, then it stopped working and I bought 2 new in box units on Ebay because the unit was discontinued about 3 years ago and no longer available new in stores. My internet speed was horrible, so I did some research and then learned how out of date the Linksys router was, and that the firmware was no longer available, and the firmware the 2 new in box units I bought was like 2.0 and 1. something. I thought about how I have cable modem and not getting the speed I should because the Linksys was a 10/100 Its one of those things you install and forget about as long as it works, so for years I wasn't getting the speed I should and never noticed until the router stopped working. I found that when I connected my tower directly to the modem and internet was immediately working again. So I ordered a new wired ASUS router; ASUS ExpertWiFi EBG15 Gigabit VPN Wired Router, up to 3 WAN ethernet Ports + 1 USB WAN Here's what my speed went to, 93.94 Mbps on the Linksys to 667.28 on the ASUS; https://preview.redd.it/s5nihosp9aig1.jpeg?width=1394&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=98207fc15838329cf6b94ef9b7c2c12b45eff0b1 I did while waiting on the ASUS to arrive- took the Linksys apart and soldered in 2 replacement capacitors - the two large ones, and it immediately worked again, so the 2 large capacitors one or the other or both failed and that was why it stopped working, but with the new 667 Mbps speed the Linksys is now just stuck in a box in case it's needed as a spare again.

I don't know about prices where you are But i'd recommend linksys routers for openwrt Wrt3200acm, or linksys mx5300, mx4200 Those routers have dual paritions, if you screw one parition or flash it wrongly the other auto boots. Meaning you can play with it as you want as well as make identical copies so even if one partition goes bad the other works immediatly They have good cpus, ram and storage for running a variety of packages, vpns, adguard, adblock The usb 3.0 is a bonus for running Samba, FTP, EXtroot to increase the storage space you have + you can use it as a 4g/5g tether from a usb modem or your phone !!

I have the Ruijie RG-EW1200G PRO and it cost 13500, it's Wifi 5. It also has an OPTIONAL app to restart it or to view connected devices and the bandwidth they're using. It's also dual band, it usually doesn't choke.

Been using Tplink AX20 since around Wifi 6 (ax) was kinda new, was around 18k back then & have served really well so far apart from rare occasional quirks. AX23 which is currently available in your budget is probably the same model with minor changes. Specs are good (quad core with enough ram) and dual band is definitely 100% 'not just marketing'. You get high link speed with wifi 6 devices. I get upto 1200Mbps link speed between wifi 6 PC & the router (depends on distance) and have played competitive multiplayer game on wifi with similar experience to Ethernet. If you ever end up transferring files over local network (between laptop & PC for example) you get good transfer speeds due to stable and higher link speeds. Large files can be transferred over network & there's also option to stream content over wifi within your local network. If you have an android tv box connected with wifi (or get one in future), it better be supporting 5Ghz for it to stream HD over wifi and a dual band router is needed in that case (when you don't wanna run an Ethernet cable) I have it connected to a line interactive sine wave UPS though, and probably that's the way to do it or you are just risking your router. It did survive Karachi heat so far. The more expensive AX50 version was known for overheating so I would still avoid AX53/AX55 unless they have fixed those issues. Also with tplink routers, for stability, it's a good thing to set them to auto reboot daily or at minimum weekly at some hour when no one is likely using internet.

Hello, I’m looking to upgrade my home router since the free one from my ISP (Nokia G-140W-H) has pretty poor performance. It doesn’t deliver the full speed over Wi-Fi—my internet subscription is 600 Mbps, but I only get about 400 Mbps wirelessly due to the router’s limited capabilities. Wired connections hit the full 600 Mbps, no problem. Also, whenever I plug in my laptop via Ethernet and download a large game (over 50 GB), the entire network crashes; all the bandwidth goes to the laptop, leaving other devices with barely enough for basic web browsing. In my house, I’ve got a ton of connected devices: 8 smart AC units, PlayStation, 2 TV, a blender, a washing machine, and a desk lamp all hooked up to the internet (no idea why a blender needs Wi-Fi, but here we are 😅). At peak times, there are usually around 6 phones, 2 iPads, and my MacBook in use. I’m torn between two upgrade options that are both the same price: 1 TP-Link BE3600 Wi-Fi 7 Router: This is the newer Wi-Fi 7 tech. I’d place it roughly in the center of the house, replacing the old router at the pink dot shown in the attached house plan image. I know I might not get the full speed in my room due to the distance, but it should be a big improvement overall. 2 TP-Link AC1200 Deco Whole Home Mesh WiFi System [Deco M4 V1 (3-Pack)]: This is a 3-unit mesh setup using older Wi-Fi 5 tech. From what I’ve researched, I might only get around 400 Mbps at the edges (or best case), meaning I’d lose out on 200 Mbps from my 600 Mbps plan. The upside is better whole-home coverage—I plan to place the units at the blue dots on the attached house plan. Current ideal Wi-Fi speeds from the old router (in Mbps): • MacBook Pro M1 Pro: 80-100 • iPhone 15 Pro Max: 50-80 • iPad Pro 2020: (similar to above, around 40-65) I’ve heard that upgrading could roughly double these speeds, but I’m not sure. Which option would you recommend for better performance, coverage, and handling all my devices without bottlenecks?

I recently purchased two travel routers and decided to review them. When I first received them, they were dropping connection about every hour, but a firmware update resolved that. I tested one in my home lab for two weeks with a G6 Instant connected, and it worked flawlessly. Since it was on my home WiFi, no external connections were really involved. I then took it on a trip to Canada as a real-world test. On past trips I’ve used GL.iNet travel routers, which have some issues but are generally reliable. My first stop was a Marriott hotel. Setup was easy, and the captive portal popped up quickly — a big improvement over the GL.iNet, which struggled in that area. The cameras worked well. However, I noticed significant issues with WiFi calling and real-time communication. A Teams call for work was choppy, and Discord and WiFi calls had similar problems. I tested multiple devices and both UTRs with the same results. The router also required frequent power cycles because it would stop passing traffic while still showing as connected. When I connected directly to the hotel’s WiFi, these issues didn’t occur, though it could have been hotel-related. In Toronto, my Airbnb had gigabit internet, and I was able to connect via Ethernet, getting full symmetrical speeds directly to my computer. For context, my home setup is 10 Gbps symmetrical, so I don’t have bandwidth limitations there. Through the travel router over Ethernet using Teleport VPN to my gateway, I saw around 200 Mbps, which is respectable. That said, I value stability over raw speed. Support from Ubiquiti wasn’t very helpful, which was disappointing. Still, this is their first release, and I’m sure improvements will come. For now, I’ll be sticking with GL.iNet. That is just my experience using the UTR. I am hopeful it will improve with future updates. P.S Sorry for the terrible photo, but it did work out quite well with the outlet right next to the ethernet. https://preview.redd.it/mfoupeu305fg1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a33a367a7a0590afadae74d14c1f33dbe715de4c

So I was able to pick up a UTR just in time for our family trip to Hawaii but didn't have anytime to setup or test before we left. I've seen a few post asking about the use case for this and why you might grab one vs a GL.iNet and I thought I'd share why this is working great for me so far. We have a 10 month old and use a G4 Instant as her crib cam so the Teleport feature immediately caught my eye and made it worth it to try it out. The fact that we could be on vacation and have a baby monitor that was tied back to our home network and NVR and we could view it along with all our other security cameras with almost no set up is exactly what I've been looking for. Aside from the Unifi Protect capabilities, I was interested to see how the UTR works with our other devices. We had decided to bring a few different smart home devices with us since it was going to be a longer trip and we weren't sure about the weather. A couple Google Nest Mini's to act as a speaker group across the condo, a Fire stick with all our streaming apps already signed in, plus our laptops, iPads, and phones for all 4 adults. The fact that we would be able to pull out any of these devices and have them just connect was partially the reason we even decided to bring some of them. Logging in to hotel wifi with captive portals is such a pain with multiple devices, even if it is free, and trying to do that on a smart speaker or streaming stick and you're SOL. Plus the added benefit of our Fire TV going through our home network gave us the ability to watch live TV from our local channels mostly to keep up with the news) and we don't run the risk of all our streaming apps thinking we're sharing passwords and logging us out at home. I'm sure y'all have already guessed where this might not work great. The UTR with its wifi5 and shit range isn't going to handle all these devices very well and that's true. Everything connected just fine but started to run into signal strength and speed issues pretty quickly. So that's where I decided to experiment a little. I brought along an extra U6Lite to act as a dedicated AP so I could get some better range and add wifi6 into the mix. It took a bit of figuring out; I had to reset the U6Lite and set it up in standalone mode, use the same SSID/Password as my home network, and change the SSID on the UTR to something/anything else (there needs to be a way to disable wifi) but once I was done everything connected perfectly. I had faster speeds and signal that extended about 30ft out onto the lawn outside the condo. I'm definitely a novice when it comes to networking and the home lab so maybe all this could have been done with any other travel router with a VPN, but for $79 for someone who already has a Unifi setup at home, this was absolutely perfect. Now hopefully the weather stays nice and we don't spend anytime inside and all this was for nothing but at least it was fun and I get to tell my wife it worked. TL;DR : UTR with U6Lite as AP on hotel gigibit works great for 10+ devices, including 4k steaming stick and smart speaker groups, plus G4 Instant as baby monitor while grandma watches the little one for date night, all with very little setup.

Edit: note I’m referring to a dedicated mobile hotspot not just hot spotting your phone. Serious question here. Other than VPN is there a reason a travel router such as GL-inet or UTR vs a mobile hotspot is valuable? I see arguments to using a travel router as: \-Set up all devices in a family to connect to it so when you arrive they all just join. Mobile hotspot does this. \-Not being on hotel, Starbucks, etc WiFi exposed. Your hotspot is isolated. \-VPN back to your home network. Ok the router doing the lifting here makes sense. But you could just use VPN per device (most not all devices so I get the travel router excels here) as needed while on the hotspot to accomplish this. For my experience, with slower upload speeds on my home network (thanks a lot, Comcast) back to my remote location were pretty crippling so I would only run VPN when absolutely necessary. \-Travel router can help in situations where you’re say on a cruise ship so mobile hotspot wouldn’t work anyways. \-Travel router doesn’t require monthly internet expenses. Although I see lots of people wanting a 5G SIM card included in UTR so this may be a wash. So what else am I missing? I’m fortunate enough my company pays for a mobile hotspot for me for work travel, and I take it with me camping, etc., as it cost the company the same each month with an unlimited data plan regardless if I use it or not. I also bought a GL-inet Slate to play with mostly and better understand these devices but again, I find myself more often than not just using my mobile hotspot versus setting up the travel router. For all the reasons listed above. I really want to get a UTR because I like the concept but I really question if I would actually use it / trying to justify it.

You could get the Gl.inet and not have lug around a U6Lite and it also comes with wifi 7. You said it yourself the only config change required was to have the same wifi settings as you have them at home and all devices will auto-connect.

My trusty Netgear Nighthawk has reached 10 years old and I need to retire it, if only for security reasons. My internet is spectrum 1gig and i live in a 1200sqft 1 floor apt. Want to get a new router under $200 and have circled on these 2. The ASUS is only dual band but seems to get excellent reviews. The Flint 3 seems to be the rage here. I’m probably going to use stock firmware unless there’s a good YouTube walkthrough on custom firmware. Also before people recommend UNIFI it’s just too expensive right now for either CGU+AP or Dream router 7, trying to stay under $200 Ok so what say you Reddit?

Cudy WR 3000S. I just got one myself to replace my Asus RT-AX55. I think anything with a filogic chip is good, I could be wrong but so far, it handle PPPoE and WLAN just fine.

1. SLT Fibre Router Connected to TP Link Archer 1750 --> Upgrading soon to a TP-Link Archer AX55 2. No issues on TP-Link. 3. SLT Fiber 4. Yes.

Wifi is not designed for multiple devices to be constantly transferring downloading data at the same time. Its best for intermittant or bursty transfers. We call it collision collapse. Wifi 7 fixes this with some new TDMA-like features but its going to take a while for all devices connected to an AP to be capable of the wifi 7 protocol so it doesnt have to run in CSMA legacy mode. Its an airtime problem, not a bandwidth problem. In simple terms, the easiest way to solve this would be two or three access points, such as unifi or grandstream, each hard wired back to the router, set to 20mhz channel widths and then you balance the load across the access points so as to reduce the chance of packet collisions and the subsequent collapse in throughput capability. By having multiple access points on different radio channels, you are doubling the avaliable airtime.

"Your Orbi AC3000 Tri-band WiFi Router (RBK53-100NAS) will be End Of Service within 45 Days" I received this email today from Netgear with a 20% discount code for another one of their products. So nice of them… This has been working fine at my parents' house for about 10 years. What would you upgrade to? Thanks. \[Update\]: if you found this looking for suggestions, this [thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/1t1358a/recommendation_for_a_new_mesh_wifi_system/) also has good discussion on what to do now that Netgear abandoned these older Orbi devices. I plan on getting my parents an Eero Pro 6E tri-band mesh. I found these go on sale at Amazon often.

So here's my situation, and I would love some suggestions of perhaps setups I'm not thinking of. House is about 4200 square feet across three levels. For the past five years, I've used an Orbi RBK753 system to cover the house with the main router in my office (center of the house, middle floor) and satellites in the upstairs main bedroom (at one end of the house) and basement (at other end of the house). We have fiber to the house that clocks in at 2Gbps symmetrical even though the Orbi can only handle up to 1Gbps, and the ONT is also in my office near the router. But now the Orbi system is starting to reboot on its own randomly, disrupting our WiFi coverage and really not good for when I'm on work calls and suddenly lose connectivity. Other things I have thought about/considered/done: * Tried the eero Pro 7. Easy to set up, but the throughput speeds were reeeeeeally slow. Like even in the same room as the router, I was only getting like 300Mbps on my newest devices, even as the eero registered 2.3Gbps at the node. So I returned the system. Not gonna go down that road again. * Ethernet connection between the router and satellites is not possible. * Would like to future-proof again... if I'm going to stick with this system for (hopefully) the next 5 years, I'd like something that takes full advantage of current capabilities and perhaps even goes beyond in case my ISP increases speeds or I get a ton more connected devices. * Not a fan of TP-Link given potential security issues. * New Orbi systems (870 and 970) appear to be hot messes with reviews calling out connectivity, stability and speed issues. * Have a Synology NAS connected via Ethernet to the downstairs satellite as a wireless backup utility (using Apple Time Machine). Given that, any suggestions of systems I'm not aware of or not considering?

Can you run Ethernet at all? I went from orbi to unifi and having hardwired APs is a game changer. Way better than even I anticipated

For years, we've been having intermittent internet issues and lots of cable tv issues (pixelation, complete interruptions sometimes, etc.) and as of recently our cable boxes entirely stopped working. My dad called an Xfinity technician to take a look at our setup, results of his tests were somewhat unclear, but the consensus seemed to be that there was a wiring issue somewhere between the street and our modem/cable boxes. Signal coming from the street was sufficient. He also said that we should get a new cable box as we have the original X1 from the 2010s, and that we'd need to use the rented Xfinity Gateway instead of our own modem... not a fan of that, just seems like they're trying to get us to rent more pointless stuff lol (well, slight correction - their new system does seem to require the Xfinity Gateway due to a wireless approach but I don't see why they couldn't just install one of the wired X1 boxes. They also said the modem impacted their ability to troubleshoot, which would make sense since they probably have admin access on all Xfinity-owned modems) Our current equipment: * Modem: Arris SURFboard S34 * Router: Netgear Orbi RBR750 (Firmware V4.6.9.11\_2.3.5) * Wiring: standard coaxial wiring, around \~20 years old (original wiring everywhere, house built in mid-2000s) * Xfinity cable box: old X1, model XG1-P Our modem statistics (I just discovered our modem had a login page (never thought to check)! and did some of my own diagnostics just a few minutes ago.) Here are some dashboard screenshots: [General stats](https://preview.redd.it/b9uepko6lx8h1.png?width=1157&format=png&auto=webp&s=8b627a3e8e7a9f6067a5c30ce4ccd184a78bc753) [Downstream stats](https://preview.redd.it/vrkvphrelx8h1.png?width=836&format=png&auto=webp&s=f68d56a0e1c95394819cbfceda21987e57e244b3) [Upstream stats](https://preview.redd.it/cbtqur5ilx8h1.png?width=1112&format=png&auto=webp&s=4e7ba6ea22aee6bb9e727a0517b52204e882c94f) Not going to send event logs as there's likely sensitive info (IPs, MACs, etc) but there are a lot of critical issues, if those would be helpful I can censor them and send them over Things I noticed in the provided stats- high upstream power and low downstream power (apparently indicates weak signal), a LOT of uncorrectable errors Questions: 1. Are these stats likely causing the issues? (mainly our cable TV and sometimes internet)? 2. Is the coax line going from the street to our house likely the reason for this poor signal? Can the cable company replace our lines? (Pretty sure they're underground, but I'd imagine they're in some sort of conduit so perhaps they'd be able to use the good ol' trick of tying a new cable to the end of the old one and pulling the old one out) 3. Is there anything else I should check or try before trying to get the wiring or equipment to be replaced? Thanks for any help in advance! Edit: to add more layers to the story, after the guy left, our upload speeds are noticeably better, reaching to almost 300Mbps, when they were previously sitting around 40. Additionally, our cable box error, XRE-00250, is supposedly caused by my dad's request over Xfinity support chat to have our system rebooted? The only reason why he made that request was to fix severe pixelation and signal issues, so even if the error is caused by what the support chat person did, there's still likely an underlying issue from our signal Let me know if you have any questions about this situation because I'm probably leaving out something lol

The landlord may not be able to simply move the router to another unit as it would involve moving the Internet connection. However it sounds like he has a terrible router. I haven't had to reset my Linksys mesh system for 2 years. Even if I have to reset it, I would be able to do it from the hallway, without having to enter the unit.

I have 3 of the MA2500C models. One connected to the ISP router via cat6. Coax runs from that spot in the basement up to two coax outlets upstairs, one in a bedroom and one above the garage. Not sure how the splitting runs within the home, as this is coax was installed many years ago before I lived here. The other two moca’s are attached to those coax outlets upstairs, which then directly connect to Linksys Velop WiFi via Ethernet port. Worked like a champ until I switched ISPs.

It’s not your service — it’s your mesh. The Linksys MX2000 physically can’t go over 400–600 Mbps, and in the real world they drop to 20 Mbps. The fix is simple: replace the mesh with a couple of hardwired access points.

I'm so done with my Google Nest Wifi and Nest cameras. Waiting for my Ugreen and WD Red Pro HD to arrive. Still looking for a front door camera/dorr bell. Any suggestions?

First picture is what I currently have. Google WiFi gen 1. It’s been great! I love it! But I feel it’s time for an upgrade. We recently got fiber optic internet in our area and so I want to upgrade to utilize that best as possible. Second picture is what I was planning to get. The newer nest pro. Just because I have loved the Google WiFi system so much and I have Google nests around the house so I like that it all is within that ecosystem. And I’ve read good things about the nest pro system other than it’s expensive compared to others which I see that. It’s currently on sale right now. The 2 pack is $200 from $300 which is wild to me. Another concern I have is the best pro system is 3 years old at this point. Is it still ok? I want something that’s really good, somewhat future proof for a while, and reliable. Currently I live in an apartment. It’s about 1000sq ft. However I don’t care for over kill because at some point I plan to have a bigger house and will want to use my WiFi system in that. All the other pictures I have included are from my local Walmart and what they have, just in case anything is worth checking out. I was reading an article from CNET and it said the TP link deco W7200 was the best mesh system? But honestly between Google (nest), TP link, Eero, Orbi, etc. I can’t decide. What’s the best WiFi mesh system you guys recommend?

I'm planning on hardwiring my Google Wifi APs. Does this network diagram look like it will work? I'm tracking after the Fios router I can plug into the first Google AP and then to a switch (planning on using Netgear Smart switch) and then to all the other devices. Does anyone see any issues with this plan? Thank you!

**Background** My apartment comes "free" with internet. There's an ethernet jack on my wall, where I connect my router (Google Nest) to get wifi. At the same time, I have another ethernet cable that connects my router to my desktop computer for wired internet. My download/upload speed (on wired) based on both Google and the Google Home app is 100/90 mbps. **Problem** I want wired internet to my work laptop (Lenovo ThinkPad + docking station), but my Google Nest only has two ethernet ports. I don't want to have to switch the ethernet cable between my work laptop and desktop computer every time. Is an ethernet switch right for me? My local target has the 8-port TP-Link in-stock. I'm concerned about slower speeds, compared to getting a router with the number of ethernet ports I need.

I assumed it wasn't safe to keep using routers well past their last security firmware update, maybe the risks are exaggerated? My Netgear had its last update almost 4 years ago and I'm still using it, but still I got mad for it only getting or 2\~3 years of updates. I currently have a single router doing everything. I am moving to a new house that will require 2 access points/nodes for whole house wifi. Both points have LAN, so I thought a Mesh wifi with wired backhaul would be my best option. Is AP better? I remember when there wasn't a seamless AP solution and you would get a small "hiccup" when the device switched routers. That does not happen anymore, right? My current budget is 30,000 JPY (about 180 USD), but of course cheaper is better. I was surprised to see the Xiaomi mesh routers cost only 12,000 JPY (\~75 USD) for two routers, but no idea how reliable those are. I think most routers available in Europe and US are also available in Japan, but Japan models have lower limits on wifi power, so signal is much weaker.

Considering that I live in an area where the internet is worse than in Grenland 🫠mobile sim card 5G router is the only solution. I've always wanted to have a PS5 and a good gaming TV, but our internet connection, which we've had for the last 10 years since we moved here, of 10-15 megabits, didn't allow me to buy a console. Then one day I accidentally found on Google that there are mobile 5G routers with a SIM card that convert mobile signal in Wifi. I immediately searched the internet for mobile 5G routers, routers with a sim card and at least 2 Lan ports. I decided on the Xiaomi cpe 5G PRO V2 mobile router unlocked to all networks. The mobile signal tower is on a hill about 1 km as the crow flies from my house and there were no obstacles in between. I can literally see it when it's sunny. So the mobile signal is strong and the quality is maximum. I bought the already mentioned xiaomi router (the prices of mobile 5g sim routers are quite high). I paid 220 euros for it but there are many more expensive ones. The advantage of mobile internet is that it is unlocked to all networks and I use mobile tariffs from providers that seem the most favorable to me. For the last 6-7 months I have been using a mobile tariff ( internet week ) which last 7 days and cost 4.99 euros. I can use flat internet and speed is maximum avaliable. I have no contract with any ISP. I can insert a sim card from another provider whenever I want. The Xiaomi router has proven to be very good. Speedtest speeds were 350-370 for download and130-140 for upload. But the problems started when I bought a PS5 laptop and a gaming TV. Also, the bands would go wild, the speeds would vary, the latency would be very high. Speedtest via mobile phones would drop to 100, 50, even 20 megabits, and the upload from the ideal 130 would drop to 20 or 10. Unfortunately, this would also be reflected in PS5 gaming. At the beginning, I would test PS5 speed and it would be 250-270 and the upload would be around 25. If someone would start YouTube on their mobile phone, for example, it would also be reflected in PS5 speeds. Although it has an excellent Snapdragon x62 and decent cooling, router would heat up after 4-5 hours of PS5 gaming. and up to 10 devices connected to the router. I decided to buy a powerful Asus Tuf gaming be3600 Wifi 7 router and connect Xiaomi in bridge mode. Asus is now the main one and Xiaomi only has the task of collecting the mobile signal, converting it to Wifi and all other actions are performed by Asus. There are no more sudden speed drops, latency lag and jitter are reduced. There is no band rampage and the 2.4 GHz network is locked which also contributed to stability. QoS starts game mode and in general I am very happy with this router. Stable speeds, excellent gaming, no sudden drops and no more network instability... Asus has fixed all that. Yes, I forgot to write how strong the Asus router is. The processor is a quad core at 2 GHz and the RAM is an incredible 1 Gb ddr4. Only models 3 times more expensive have these speeds. It also has 4 antennas and cooling; it has built-in fans on 5 sides.

Buy from xiaomi instead if you want a power bank

And they *literally* stacked. I kept two in a stack- one with the antennas removed and used as a wired switch, and the other running my wireless-G (WiFi 2) network until I replaced it with a Belkin N300 router. And then the Linksys just turned into a client bridge for my Xbox 360 so I didnt have to buy the Microsoft wireless adapter.

The 3d print I would want is a rpi case or a m4 mac mini form factor case. It would be so cool to have a retro Linksys stack of modern gear. Y2K is cool again now is the moment.