Q1 Mechanical Keyboard

Hello. Some weeks ago I discovered on Device Manager that I had a lot of duplicate entries for the same devices, some of them hidden. Coincidentally, I started experiencing input issues when playing videogames during this time period. Things like holding down A not working or working intermittently, my PS5 controller having issues holding down buttons too and my keyboard not being recognized when turning on the computer until I replug it. I even bought a completely new keyboard thinking my hardware was just old and damaged but nope, today the issues began again and once I opened the device manager I found the exact same thing that happened weeks before. Has anyone ever experienced something like this? Please help, I'm about to do a factory reset as nothing has worked. Some things that might help diagnose this: * This started happening around 6 months ago. Only 2 months ago did I start getting bothered enough to try and fix it. It has worsened since then. * My new keyboard is a Keychron Q3, it's completely new and I've taken care of it so I know for a fact it's not damaged. * My PS5 controller is way older, but some weeks ago when I uninstalled some of these ghost entries, my X went from barely being able to perform a full jump in Hollow Knight to actually being able to beat the game so this points towards not being hardware wear. Currently, my Triangle and my X buttons are causing issues from not registering inputs to not being able to hold down the button. * Some days, I can play perfectly fine with everything working as intended and some days I can't even last a minute without the input issues messing with the gameplay. Things that I have already tried: * Ran SFC which found and repaired some system files. * Ran DISM which restored several corrupted HID driver files including xinputhid.inf, hidbth.inf, hidbthle.inf, input.inf, mshidkmdf.inf, mshidumdf.inf and others. * Tested the controller in the native Windows game controller test with all games and Steam closed, confirming the issue happens at the OS level independent of any game or software. * Updated Windows, BIOS, and chipset INF drivers. * Updated controller and keyboard firmware to latest version. * Reinstalled Microsoft GameInput after finding it was crashing with error code 0xc0000005 in Event Viewer. (This was completely irrelevant as it did not fix anything at all, but worth mentioning I guess) * Disabled USB Selective Suspend in Windows power settings and removed the "Allow computer to turn off this device to save power" setting from every device in Device Manager including the Bluetooth adapter. Nothing has fixed it yet and the ghost drivers keep appearing every day. Is there a way to fix this? Am I doomed to reset my PC?

Hi all, I am going to be building a PC for the first time which will mostly be used for gaming. I have a specific budget I can't go over which is $3,735. How does this build look? Any advice is much appreciated! |Component|Model|Vendor|Price| |:-|:-|:-|:-| |**CPU**|AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D|Newegg or Amazon|$420| |**CPU Cooler**|Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 mm AIO|Amazon|$130| |**Motherboard**|ASUS ROG STRIX B850-E Gaming WiFi (AM5, ATX, DDR5, PCIe 5.0)|Newegg|$300| |**RAM**|G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2×16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30|Amazon|$130| |**GPU**|MSI GeForce RTX 5080 16G Gaming Trio OC|Newegg|$1,300| |**Storage**|Samsung 990 Pro 4TB NVMe Gen4 SSD|Amazon|$350| |**PSU**|Corsair RM850x (2024) 850 W 80+ Gold|Newegg|$140| |**Case**|Fractal Design North XL (ATX mid-tower)|Amazon|$190| |**OS**|Windows 11 Pro retail license|Newegg|$200| |**Keyboard**|Keychron Q1 Pro QMK/VIA Wireless|Amazon|$200| |**Mouse**|Logitech G Pro X Superlight 2|Amazon|$160| |**Headset**|HyperX Cloud III|Amazon|$100| |**Mousepad**|Logitech G840 XL|Amazon|$40| |**Thermal paste + cable extras**|Misc|Amazon|$60| |||**Total**|**\~$3,720**|

I decided to finally get my boyfriend a new upgraded mechanical keyboard. Based on my research, it's going to be one from either Keychron or Akko. But the number of models each brand offers is just so overwhelming. Budget is up to $250 and size is looking like full or 75% **Update:** Thanks to everyone who shared their opinions. After doing some final research on your suggestions, I went with the [**Keychron Q5 Max**](https://share.google/NwTv6rSJqzb8MaxHA) as it had the best features for the price and I was able to get it on sale at the time. :)

From this I can see * led controller @ 1:6 hid/no-protocol * Audio device Generalplus @ 1:7 is ver 2.01 hid/no-protocol * Deathadder @ 1:12 Mouse/boot kbd kbd/boot * Keychron @ 1:14 kbd/boot hid/no-protocol hid/no-protocol This is pretty much expected. I think that extra "devices" in the list are actually the HID report-descriptors separated out into their individual usages. For example the keychron keyboard the interfaces with no protocol set are likely defining the usage only in the report-descriptor, one endpoint will be spitting out normal keyboard data and the other will likely be mouse inputs (that don't get used). Curiously your audio device has a version 2.01 HID descriptor which is strange because the latest version published on the USB-IF site is version 1.11. I think this entire list is a red herring for you. This doesn't seem like a software problem at all. Your next step should be to try to snoop the HID reports as they come in (that's the input data). But I can guarantee to you that will be an absolute pain in the ass.

Got a Q1 HE. About half a year in I got random key presses, sent it back, got a new one. A month in, the same thing happened. Definitely not a switch issue, as it happened even with the switches removed. I’m on my third one just because I love the look and feel of it, but won’t be buying any new Keychron products anytime soon.